Pagosa Springs, Colorado, is the definition of our favorite quote, “Ready. Set. Chill.” Nestled in the San Juan Mountains, this quaint town combines natural beauty with a kind of small-town charm that makes you question why you ever tolerated city traffic.
I embarked on a journey to discover the best this mountain oasis has to offer.
Spoiler alert: It’s more than just hot springs and an overabundance of turquoise jewelry.
A Brief History and Stats About Pagosa Springs
Founded in 1891, Pagosa Springs gets its name from the Ute word “Pagosah,” meaning “healing waters.” The town is home to the world’s deepest geothermal hot spring, according to the Guinness World Records, although I’m sure there’s a rival town somewhere contesting that claim.
With a population hovering around 1,700, it’s the kind of place where everyone knows everyone—or at least pretends not to when they see you awkwardly trying to parallel park your RV.
Situated at an elevation of 7,126 feet, the weather here is as unpredictable as a reality TV star’s career. Summers are mild, with average highs in the mid-80s°F (around 29°C), while winters can drop to the teens°F (-10°C). Snowfall is generous, averaging about 67 inches annually, making it a haven for winter sports enthusiasts and people who enjoy shoveling snow as a form of exercise.

1. Hike: Treasure Falls
- Address: U.S. Highway 160 East, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147
- Price: Free
- Distance from Downtown: Approximately 15 miles east
We decided to tackle Treasure Falls early one morning, hoping to beat both the crowds and our own excuses. The trail is a short 0.9-mile round trip but gains about 300 feet in elevation, which feels more like 3,000 when you’re acclimating to the altitude. The path winds through a forest of ponderosa pines and offers glimpses of the falls as you ascend.
Reaching the base of the 105-foot waterfall was worth every gasped breath. The mist from the cascading water provided a refreshing contrast to the uphill trek. We stood there, contemplating life’s big questions—like why we don’t hike more often and whether it’s acceptable to have lunch at 10 a.m.
Pagosa Springs Vibe Scale Rating:
- Scenery: 5/5
- Accessibility: 4/5
- Effort-to-Reward Ratio: 5/5
- Overall Vibe: 5/5
2. Restaurant: Alley House Grille
- Address: 214 Pagosa St, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147
- Price: Entrées range from $20 to $40
- Distance from Downtown: In the heart of downtown
After a day of pretending to be avid hikers, we treated ourselves to dinner at Alley House Grille. Housed in a restored 1912 cottage, the restaurant exudes a cozy elegance that’s both inviting and slightly intimidating—like meeting your partner’s parents for the first time.
The menu is a fusion of American and international cuisine. I opted for the Colorado Rack of Lamb, cooked to perfection, while my wife chose a perfectly cooked steak. The service was attentive without being overbearing, and the wine list was extensive enough to make us consider becoming sommeliers.
Pagosa Springs Vibe Scale Rating:
- Food Quality: 5/5
- Ambience: 5/5
- Service: 4/5
- Overall Vibe: 5/5
3. Brewery: Riff Raff Brewing Company
- Address: 274 Pagosa St, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147
- Price: Pints around $5 to $7
- Distance from Downtown: Smack dab in downtown
In the interest of immersing ourselves in local culture, we visited Riff Raff Brewing Company. Situated in a Victorian house with a history as colorful as its beer selection, the brewery offers a laid-back atmosphere that’s hard to resist.
We sampled a flight that included the “Lazy Lightning” and “RayGun IPA.” Each brew had its own personality, much like the eclectic crowd of locals and tourists. The outdoor patio was the perfect spot to unwind, and we found ourselves engaged in a spontaneous debate with fellow patrons over the merits of mountain living.
Pagosa Springs Vibe Scale Rating:
- Beer Quality: 5/5
- Atmosphere: 4/5
- Service: 4/5
- Overall Vibe: 4.5/5
4. Spa: The Springs Resort & Spa
- Address: 165 Hot Springs Blvd, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147
- Price: Day passes start at $53
- Distance from Downtown: Walking distance
No visit to Pagosa Springs is complete without indulging in its famous hot springs. We chose The Springs Resort & Spa, which boasts 24 geothermal pools of varying temperatures. After shelling out the admission fee—which felt a bit steep until we remembered it grants unlimited access—we donned our swimsuits and fluffy robes.
Soaking in the mineral-rich waters while overlooking the San Juan River was an exercise in pure relaxation. Each pool has a whimsical name like “Lobster Pot” or “Top o’ the Mountain,” and we made it our mission to try as many as possible. By the end, our muscles were so relaxed we questioned our ability to walk back to the hotel.
Pagosa Springs Vibe Scale Rating:
- Relaxation Factor: 5/5
- Facilities: 5/5
- Value for Money: 3.5/5
- Overall Vibe: 4.5/5
5. Outdoor Water Sport: Paddleboarding on Lake Pagosa
- Address: Lake Pagosa Park, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147
- Price: Board rentals around $20 per hour
- Distance from Downtown: Approximately 4 miles north
In a bold move to embrace the great outdoors, we decided to try paddleboarding on Lake Pagosa. Neither of us had much experience, but how hard could standing on a floating board really be? After renting equipment from a local outfitter, we wobbled our way onto the lake.
Surprisingly, we managed to stay upright most of the time. Gliding across the calm waters surrounded by mountain vistas was nothing short of therapeutic. It was only when a curious fish decided to investigate my toes that I nearly capsized, much to the amusement of onlookers.
Pagosa Springs Vibe Scale Rating:
- Fun Factor: 5/5
- Difficulty: 2/5
- Scenery: 5/5
- Overall Vibe: 5/5
6. Learning Activity: Chimney Rock National Monument
- Address: 3179 CO-151, Chimney Rock, CO 81121
- Price: Guided tours starting at $16
- Distance from Downtown: Approximately 17 miles southwest
To add some educational merit to our trip, we visited Chimney Rock National Monument. The site preserves ancient Puebloan ruins dating back over 1,000 years. We joined a guided tour led by a knowledgeable ranger who shared insights into the lives of the ancestral Pueblo people.
Hiking to the Great House Pueblo atop a mesa provided panoramic views that were worth the modest exertion. The alignments of the structures with celestial events added a layer of mystique, making us ponder the sophistication of these ancient architects.
Pagosa Springs Vibe Scale Rating:
- Educational Value: 5/5
- Scenery: 4.5/5
- Accessibility: 3.5/5
- Overall Vibe: 4.5/5
7. Historic Activity: San Juan Historical Museum
- Address: 96 Pagosa St, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147
- Price: Admission $5
- Distance from Downtown: In downtown
For a deep dive into local history, we stopped by the San Juan Historical Museum. Housed in a former jail built in 1883, the museum offers exhibits that cover everything from Native American artifacts to early settler memorabilia.
Walking through the preserved cells was both eerie and fascinating. The collection of photographs and personal items paints a vivid picture of life in Pagosa Springs over the decades. It’s a small museum but rich in content, making it an hour well spent.
Pagosa Springs Vibe Scale Rating:
- Historical Insight: 5/5
- Ambience: 4/5
- Value for Money: 5/5
- Overall Vibe: 4.5/5
8. Outlandish Activity: Pagosa Dogsled Adventures
- Address: 122 Pagosa St, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147
- Price: Tours starting at $150
- Distance from Downtown: Meeting point in downtown; activity occurs outside town
In winter months, we couldn’t resist the allure of dogsledding. Pagosa Dogsled Adventures offers a unique way to explore the snowy landscape. Meeting the team of enthusiastic Alaskan Malamutes and Siberian Huskies was a highlight in itself.
Under the guidance of experienced mushers, we glided through pristine forests, the only sounds being the sled runners on snow and the occasional excited bark. It was an exhilarating experience that made us appreciate winter in a whole new light.
Pagosa Springs Vibe Scale Rating:
- Adventure Factor: 5/5
- Uniqueness: 5/5
- Priceyness: 2/5
- Overall Vibe: 4.5/5
9. Spa Alternative: Overlook Hot Springs Spa
- Address: 432 Pagosa St, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147
- Price: Day passes around $30
- Distance from Downtown: Centrally located
For a more budget-friendly soak, we visited Overlook Hot Springs Spa. The facility features rooftop tubs with views of the mountains and indoor pools that evoke a Victorian bathhouse ambiance.
While smaller than The Springs Resort, the experience was intimate and relaxing. We alternated between the hot pools and the cold plunge, convincing ourselves it was good for circulation. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of activities.
Pagosa Springs Vibe Scale Rating:
- Relaxation Factor: 4/5
- Facilities: 4/5
- Value for Money: 5/5
- Overall Vibe: 4.5/5
Bonus: Perfect Day Trip from Pagosa Springs—Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
- Address: 479 Main Ave, Durango, CO 81301
- Price: Tickets from $99
- Distance from Pagosa Springs: Approximately 60 miles west to Durango
We took a day trip to Durango to ride the historic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. The steam-powered train travels through the San Juan National Forest to the mining town of Silverton.
The journey offers spectacular views of canyons, rivers, and forests. It was like stepping back in time, complete with soot and the nostalgic smell of coal smoke. Despite the lengthy ride—about 9 hours round trip—it was an unforgettable experience that added depth to our Colorado adventure.
Our Ideal 3-Day Itinerary in Pagosa Springs
Day 1: Welcome to Pagosa Springs
- Morning: Hike Treasure Falls
- Afternoon: Lunch at Alley House Grille
- Evening: Soak at Overlook Hot Springs Spa
Day 2: Adventure and Relaxation
- Morning: Paddleboarding on Lake Pagosa
- Afternoon: Visit San Juan Historical Museum
- Evening: Dinner and brews at Riff Raff Brewing Company
Day 3: Cultural Immersion
- Morning: Tour Chimney Rock National Monument
- Afternoon: Relax at The Springs Resort & Spa
- Evening: Stroll downtown, perhaps indulging in some local shopping
Pagosa Springs is a Place We Could Live
Pagosa Springs surprised us in the best possible way. It’s a place where outdoor adventures meet relaxation, and where the community’s warmth rivals that of the geothermal springs.
So pack your bags, adjust to the altitude, and prepare to question why you haven’t visited sooner. Just don’t blame me if you find yourself checking local real estate listings before you leave.
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